Launch of Emervel

May 23rd, 2011

Nestle and L’Oreal  are the parents of a dermatology company called Galderma who offer advanced skin care products.  They wanted to be able to offer a dermal filler however, in order to do that they had to release a Botulinum Neuro Toxin (BoNT) first.  The BoNT that they sell is Azzalure which is the licensed version of Dysport, proven to clinically give long lasting results with a rapid onset of action.

Cosmetica Training’s tutors had the opportunity to visit Galderma’s head quarters in Nice last year and had the pleasure of seeing them carry out tests on the extrusion force of their new dermal filler.  Previous fillers had been tested in their laboratories however, it was their latest offering that certainly met the grade.

We are now pleased to announce the availability of their Emervel range to include Lips, Touch, Classic, Deep and Volume.  Emervel contains lidocaine and no free hyaluronic acid is found within the product which can potentially reduce injection site oedema.

Emervel uses the industry standard butanediol diglycidyl ether (BDDE)as a cross linker to ensure the resulting product provides long lasting results that the market insists upon. The reported level of this BDDE is said to be at the limit expected by the Food and Drug Administration although it is suggested that the carcinogenic risk of lifetime exposure to BDDE was minimal.

With prices for this dermal filler at the higher end of the market it will be interesting to see how well this product sells.  Delegates and models can be assured that Cosmetica will continue to use Juvederm Ultra on our dermal filler courses which are used in clinical practice by our tutors.


Chemical Peels and Stretch Marks

May 17th, 2011

Cosmetica Training staff benefited from attending an advanced chemical peel course with Dr Philippe Deprez of Skin Tech. The course revisited some of the many protocols of the Easy TCA peel to include the existing as well as the new daily skin care products. It was exciting to see their Uni Deep, Only Touch and Lip and Eyelid included in the course as well as the new range of Phenol Peels.

The launch of their new easy Phen Light shows exciting prospects with a reduced 60% phenol mixed with an oily solution to slow down the penetration of what is an otherwise potential toxic product.  The application of this peel requires a long appointment time to prevent toxicity and 10 minutes at least should elapse between each area being treated.

Following the 2 day course Cosmetica trainers were pleased to participate in a trial of their new stretch mark and easy phen light products, with 3 patients included in to treat stretch marks on the abdomen and buttocks. It will be interesting to see the results of the trial after treating striae that are both old and new with varying degrees of paraesthesia.  The participants of the easy phen light are due to commence shortly after some additional protocols have been drawn up by the medical staff and we will present our findings in due course.

The patients undergoing treatment of wide, deep striae found the treatment pain free however, we found that the superficial striae that were being treated necessitated the need for a topical anaesthetic beforehand.  The chosen product is Skin Techs new Reparestim TD Striae Regeneration which aims to improve epithelialisation, local circulation, elasticity and thickness of the skin. Treatment outcomes will be reviewed after 5 treatments have taken place with weekly treatments being continued for the more severe presenting striae.


Lip Augmentation

May 10th, 2011

The trends in lip augmentation have changed over the years from the Paris lip to the fully enhanced look; however these results have paved the way for a more natural appearance. When running dermal filler training courses we see approximately 30% of models requesting lip augmentation.  Other popular areas for treatment on basic administration courses are naso labial folds, marionettes, peri oral and cheek lines. Full lip augmentation is not included in the basic course as volumising the lip, creating a pout or enhancing philtrim ridges are included in our local nerve infiltration and lip course.

When teaching medical professionals basic dermal filler techniques we include enhancement of the vermillion border or white roll.  Selecting the most appropriate product for the model undergoing treatment is key to giving a natural augmentation; the most popular dermal filler we use is Juvederm Ultra Smile.  The problems we see during our training sessions are a loss of volume and projection, lack of definition with the lip outline as well as the Cupid’s bow and the evidence of fine lines.  If the peri-oral lines are very superficial, have recently appeared and protrude a couple of millimetres beyond the lip line, augmenting the vermillion border can improve their appearance as well as subtly enhancing the lip.

Potential side effects of having lip augmentation are erythema, swelling and bruising.  Swelling can often be asymmetrical and can be exacerbated by any haematoma, a cold sore can develop if there is history of herpes simplex virus although prophylactic oral acyclovir can be prescribed for 5 days before treatment.  Less common side effects include discoloration, granuloma, cysts or nodules forming around implantation site and very rarely, the risk of tissue necrosis.

Treatment is generally not recommended if you are pregnant or breast feeding, have any infections or active lesions at the injection site, have shown previous hypersensitivity to a dermal filler or are allergic to lidocaine if the product to be used has lidocaine in it. It may be advisable to withhold treatment if you have any uncontrolled auto immune diseases. If you would like to be a model for our delegates please visit www.cosmeticatrainingcourses.co.uk/ modelbooking.html


Are the Public Protected by Beauty Therapists?

May 10th, 2011

Medical professionals are arguably more qualified and experienced to undertake botox and dermal filler treatments than any beauty therapist and the public has more protection under their care, which is the most important aspect.

Medical professionals have to be registered with their governing body in order to work as a doctor, dentist or nurse.  Each governing body has set guidelines for their registrants to follow as a condition of their registration. If a guideline is not adhered to, the professional has to answer to their council which may lead to an interim suspension order or the removal of their name from the associated professional register.

The GDC removed a dentist’s name from the register for being disrespectful to patients and staff and for refusing to do a dental treatment on a patient until they had first paid at reception. The GMC erased a doctor’s name from the register for charges, including self administering of a sedative, http://www.health-canada-pharmacy.com whilst the NMC struck off a nurse for being convicted of breech of the peace and using a work phone to send inappropriate messages to a patient.

In light of how the standards of upholding the profession of a medical professional spans across work and personal life, they could be seen as being more attentive, ethical, professional and assure the safety of patients at all times. If a beauty therapist however, was disrespectful to a client, behaved unethically or inappropriately they would not lose their beauty therapy qualification as would occur with a medical professional. When this is transferred to patient care, it is clear that a patient undergoing treatment from a medical professional has more protection and an official governing body to voice any complaints to.

To check if your aesthetic injector is appropriately registered nurse visit the NMC website, for doctors visit the GMC website and for dentists visit the GDC website.


Teeth Whitening Technicians Sued

May 4th, 2011

The General Dental Council (GDC) has successfully sued the first therapist for undertaking teeth whitening without a registration with their professional body. Warrington based Paul Hill pled guilty to the charges of illegally practicing dentistry in 2010 and 2011. A total of £13,030 was ordered to be paid by Mr Hill and his company.

It is a criminal offence for anyone who is not a dentist to carry out or consider undertaking a dental procedure under the Dentists Act 1984, this includes teeth whitening. The GDC state that any procedure that aims to improve the overall look of the teeth is a dental procedure and have completed the first test case in this matter with a further 3 cases appearing in court this month.

This is a cause for concern as the amount of people undertaking teeth whitening who do not have the qualifications necessary for registration with the GDC has risen tenfold. A teeth whitening technician does not have the knowledge or experience to be able to carry out the procedure safely and as it is illegal for them to offer this treatment any insurance they have will become null and void. When insurance becomes invalid the client would have to instigate a private law suit against the therapist.

To clarify; only a registered dentist, or dental hygienist or dental therapist under supervision of a registered dentist can carry out teeth whitening treatments. This makes it clear that if you are not a dentist and you carry out teeth whitening you are breaking the law.



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